Kedougou

I'm back in the lovely Dakar. It actually feels cold to me now that I've spent a week in 100 degree weather in Kedougou. Despite the overwhelming heat, I had an AMAZING time. We spent 2 days in Kedougou at a hotel and then went to our respective villages for 3 nights and 4 days, then returned to the hotel for 2 more days in Kedougou. I never thought I could get so attached to a people and a place so quickly. A few quick recaps of the week, I plan to write out some interesting stories from the week later:

Swimming and bathing in the Gambian river (which I later discovered has alligators and hippos- neither of which I encountered, alxumdullilay)

Sleeping under a beautiful night sky filled with stars and a full moon- all shining brighter than I've ever seen. It really didn't matter that there was no electricity, because the moon was so bright.

Beautiful banana garden, along with several other gardens. Most everyone in the village works in and contributes to these gardens.

Chickens, goats, ducks and cows. EVERYWHERE (The first day, I opened the door to my hut to be greeted by a hen and her chicks pecking about the room)

The people were so warm and enthusiastic to have us coming to learn about their life and their language. Constantly telling me to get out my notebook and write down Diallonke words.

So many children! I loved playing with all of them and attempting to communicate through smiles, facial expressions and hand motions because most did not speak French, along with most the women in the village. The children were so fascinated by my hair and skin seeing as how they don't see toubabs very often in the village (toubab is the word here for white person, or foreigner. I hear it almost on a daily basis, mostly little children on the street. You'll just be walking and here "toubab, toubab, toubab" and usually some giggles to follow it). The children in the village were much more curious rather than teasing about it, as is the case for many of the kids in Dakar. Some of the kids would rub my arm and then look at their hand to see if my color came off.

Learning Diallonke dance and song!

Making a fool of myself attempting to do things like help wash the clothes in the river. Looking like a complete weakling compared to these women. Their strength and ability to multi-task (carrying a baby on their back while scrubbing clothes on the rocks in the river, or while carrying a heavy load of laundry on their head) was amazing to me.

Lastly, I FINALLY GOT A TAN!

Voyagant a Kedougou

I don't have much time to write- got to go prepare my things for our week long trip to Kedougou, a village on the far east side of Senegal. We're staying with groups of 3-4 of us in different villages around there for about 5 days. But, there's no electricity there so I won't be in touch for about a week. I have a feeling I won't really want to be on my computer or anything anyways once I'm there. I'm excited because the village I'm gonna be in , the Diallionke, is a Mendingue village-my people! (my homestay in Dakar is Mendingue).

Too brain dead for a title..

So, things are going here. Mungi dox (its walking).

Definitely been having some ups and downs. Currently feelin a little homesick, in need of some alone time, or just some time where there arent at least 10 people around in my house some of which are children constantly crying or getting yelled at. My family is great, but they can be a little much sometimes, as any family can. Im also in need of a moment where I dont feel like Im completely incompetent in speaking wolof. I have been improving, and my french is better but definitely still got some work to do.

THe other day we went in little groups of us each with a different professor to the market with all the fabrique to get clothes made. It was for us to learn how to buy fabric and then how to discuss with the tailor about what we wanted made. I ended up getting a taille basse made (well its not made yet, im picking it up thursday). This is one of the more common ensembles that women here wear. Its basically a form fitting shirt and skirt made of the same pattern, and usually made out of the fabric called wax. Im really excited to pick it up, its so fun getting your clothes tailor made. This whole idea of brand name clothing is not too present here-i love it.

On the topic of markets, itùs so great here this community of markets and vendors. If you need a peice of fruit, a pair of shoes, pack of kleenex, whatever, you can usually just walk around the corner and find someone selling it from their own little boutique or stand. And on most main roads there are people walking around seeling the same stuff so you can just go grocery shopping from your car essentially. Here, Ill illustrate exactly how this works with an example from the other day...

Just yesterday we went on a short safari about 2 hours out of dakar (we were almost attaked by an osterich on a side note). All 14 of us and 3 of our professors were in one big bus. On the way back, there were stretches of road where people would be walking around with bags of oranges on their heads, peanuts, etc.We would just be driving and then one of our professors would motion to the driver to pull over for a second. He would pull over; open the side door, and a flock of these people selling things would swarm the door. On the way back, we got two bags of green beans, kinkilaba leaves for tea, a bag of mint, two bags of oranges, some peanuts, and a couple cups of hot touba (the coffee here). It was quite entertaining. All I could think about was how wrong our idea of fast food is in the U.S., and how they really know how to do it here. You never feel bad about buying anything here, not only cause the nice fact that its cheaper than what im used to paying in the U.S. but more so because, if its food you know its been locally grown and in most cases you know exactly who your money is going to support- your fellow people and neighbors.

all for now.

Quelque Pensees

So, to give a better rundown of the family:

So, yesterday I tried to put an actual number on the amount of people living in the house. I've concluded that there are at least 20 people, I think a couple more. There are 7 kids ranging from 8 months old to 14 years old. Then a couple of teenage girls, one of which is my youngest sister- Agi Binta- who is 16 years old, and the other two are my neices Ami and Sorna who are 15 or 16. the seven children, all girls except for one boy, Mohammed, are all my neices and nephew. Well, techinically I think some of them aren't really blood related- I've discovered that my mom, also named Awa, is something of a mother to many people. I think she's adopted a few of the children or younger people living with us. She seems to be a pretty awesome lady.

While they are all adorable, one of my neices, Aiffe, who's 2 years old, is soo cute. She is always smiling and cuddly. She's fallen asleep in my arms twice and it was so sweet. Another neice I'm connecting with really well is Fatou, she's 9 years old. She's the one giving me wolof lessons, and I'm teaching her english. I have about 4 boy cousins, from about 22-27, who are currently living in the house, but one of them, along with my sister Mariama and her baby are going back to the Gambia in a couple days unfrtunately (A good chunk of my family is from Gambia if I haven't already said that). I have an older brother, Aliou, who is probably 30 something, and he is soo kind. He's one of those people with such a peaceful, gentle spirit. Then, I have another brother, Mackey, who just turned 23. He came home to visit for his birhday (he and another brother are in school in France right now). i am really sad he's leaving because he's so sweet and fun!

{Side story: So, my house has 2 floors and then up the third flight of stairs you end up on the terrace, I guess just like the roof of our house. But, we have about 4 sheep up there. Well, now we have 3...So, for Mackey's birthday, they killed one of the sheep (unfortunately I missed the killing) and we cooked and ate it on the terrace that night with all his friends and just the family members who are around our age. IT was really fun, one of the moments where I started to feel more comfortable with my family, because your peers seem to be the hardest ones to befriend when you're not comfortable with the language. Also, as I may have mentioned, my mom is the leader of one of the Muslim brotherhoods here, and so on a daily basis, about 15 young men, and sometimes women, come to chant and pray in the house upstairs for an hour. Well, for Mackey's birthday, they chanted on the terrace for 3 hours before we ate the sheep. It was quite an experience}

I think there are about 6 bedrooms, with like 3-5 people sleeping in them except for mine which I have to my self, and then my parents which they have to their selves. It feels kinda uncomfortable having my own, when they have to share, but I guess it's okay. we do have running water for the shower, but no hot water. I'm still adjusting to that...Electricity is not dependable either, in Dakar in general. Definitely realizing more and more how spoiled we are in the U.S. Even though my family has so many less comforts than so many families including my own that I know in the U.S., they are still so generous with people in the neighborhood. Everynight they give our leftovers to this group of little boys who come to beg. Poverty is such a devasting and complex thing. I find myself thinking how much I wish this weren't the situation for people here, but then again, I feel like, lot of the wonderful things here wouldn't be here if there were many of the accomodatins we have, for example in the US. While I obviously don't wish anyone to suffer from poverty, from not being able to get a good education, or not having sufficient medical support and things like that, it seems that we have yet to figure out a way to alleviate poverty while still preserving people to people relationships, and cultural traditions and values. If that makes sense...

whew, ok, that was a long one. But I had to get some of that out.

Ndank Ndank

So, right now, and probably for the next couple weeks, I think the motto for myself is "Ndank Ndank", it's a wolof saying that basically means "slowly, slowly it will come". PATIENCE. So everything has been wonderful and exciting but moving in with the family has required some patience. But, let's see, I think today is my 4th day there, and things are already getting better. There are on average about 15 people in the house, I think that's how many actually live there, but I still don't know for sure. I"ve learned that in Senegal there is not much explaining. People come in and out and you have to take your own initiative to figure out who they are or how they are related. Often, you will never find out how they are related, it's usually safe to just say they're a cousin. Which works fine, cause i kinda do that at home with my own family.

It's funny because greetings are soo important here, but formal introductions, not so much. It's realy nice with the greetings thing though. Everyone is very careful to remember your name and say it to you in the nicest way when they see you. It's so funny, my sister will just randomely look over at me and say "Awa" (my senegalese name) "Awa, Awa Camara" (Camara is my last name). It sounds so sweet when they say it. It's like honey pouring smoothly out of a bowl, or like someone warmly embracing you. Maybe it's just my family, they are really sweet, but a friend of mine says that her family often says her name like that too.

My computer is about to die. It's hard to keep up on everything going on here, because so much happens each day that I want to tell, but I'll put up more later.

Ba beneen yoon (until next time)

Ataaya

I'm really really liking it here. Food is amazing. People are great. Still getting to know my fellow students and figure out which ones I get along with better but that's not too bad either. I get along with Emilia really well, my roommate while we're here in the hotel. Also, she's studying to be a nurse, so don't worry, I'm in good hands : )

Today we had our first official Wolof lesson. It's a pretty fun language. My favorite word today was "alxamdulilaay" (pronounced: al-[c]ham-doo-lee-lie), it means thank god. It's very fun to say.

We also met someone from our respective families today after class. One of my sisters came to meet me from my family. My mom is Madame Awa Casse (pronounced Sehsay). So my name will be Casse, and they will give me my Senegalese first name once I get there. They have family in Gambia and Casamance (the southern region of Senegal which has been having off and on conflict over their independence for the past several years) which will be really interesting, cause there is very intersting history with both the country of Gambia and the region of casamance in Senegal. Also, most exciting part for me- it's a big family! With baby and toddlers! My sister who met me today, Fatou (very popular name here) was 37 years old, and apparently I have 4 other sisters and 2 brothers, all of which are in their early 20s and older. Most of them are married and have children, but everyone lives in this one house with our mom and dad. So the kids aren't my siblings but neices and nephews (So, Nomi and Nick, fine you don't want to give me neices and nephews, I got it taken care of here). So, yes, a big family, but Fatou told me I still have my own room which is really nice, I figured I'd have to share since there are so many ppl living there. I was told my family is very religious (Muslim-about 90% of the Senegalese people are Muslim, actually, side note, I'm woken by Morning prayer over loud speakers on the streets every morning. It's pretty cool actually. I mean, more so when I'm able to go back to sleep, but still).

One last anecdote (I'm soaking up this free wireless before I move in with the family Friday). Yesterday, our first day at the SIT building (actually a house), which is not in the heart of the city, but very close, we were continuing orientation and getting introduced to the staff. Every staff member seems to be amazing. One of them is actually a famous guitarist, I can't remember the name of his group right now. But, anyways, along with the staff, they introduced us to Amadouz, the guardian of the house. He lives there, and I guess acts as a guard for the most part (guards are common here). Apparently Stevie Wonder lived in this house for a little while and Amadouz would serve him tea and such. So, anyways, they told us that Amadouz' French isn't that good but he could help us with our Wolof. That he's always open to having tea and practicing wolof. So during a break, another student, Becca, and I decided to go see if we could get in on this wolof tea lesson early on.

We went outside to the side of the house where they showed us the door where he stays. We turned the corner, and there was Amadouz. Sitting facing us, with a regal posture to match his crisp white, traditional garb. There he was, sure enough, already making tea. It looked as if he was just there, prepared for a visit anytime. He had the tea set up to his right, steam escaping out the top, with cups in front of him and mint leaves to the other side which he used to make the tea ('ataaya' in wolof). So, after the greating of "peace be with you", we sat down, sipped on tea, and tried out our very poor Wolof. I plan to make this a regular activity.

Arrive a l'auberge

We got to our hotel yesterday. I made my first friend in the NYC airport-Fatou. She was a middle-aged Gambian woman who was going back home to her kids from visiting her husband in the states. She was really sweet and helped me out with preparing me for the Dakar airport and such.

My second friend was a little 5 year old Senegalese girl who I sat next to on the plane. Our friendship was so strong it didn't need words, ( I don't think she really spoke english, except for to tell me that the cartoon character on her shoes was Dora). We amused ourselves with expressions throughout the beginning of the flight, oos and aahs about how the seatbelt buckled and unbuckled. Then I attempted to sleep, and she started trying to play with my TV. That's when her cuteness wore off. Haha, just kidding. But yeah, it was a smooth flight besides the 4 hour delay due to mechanical issues.

We arrived at the airport, fastest conveyor belts I've ever experienced. But, very proud of myself, I got my luggage on my first try. Also greeted by a sad looking cat that was just prancing around in baggage claim. A very nice, smiley man greeted me and the other program participant who was on the plane with me and took us to our bus. I quickly began to see some of these upsetting scenes where there's a beautiful, fancy beachside houses directly next to run down shacks or crippled beggars sitting on the crumbling beachside cliffs.

I think our hotel is in a more "well-to-do" part of the city, so we seem to be currently isolated from many of these impoverished scenes. The hotel is very nice and the area around it is beautiful. The beach is gorgeous, we plan on going on a walk there tonight (which by the way, very glad I'll be taking my boot off in a week cause these roads, which are mostly sand and then broken up concrete closer to the city, are definitely not conducive to broken bones). The people who own and work at this hotel are great. We seem to be very spoiled with our meals too. The food's awesome! We ate our first more traditionally Senegalese meal today, sitting on the carpet and eating with our right hand. Let me tell you, turns out that is a definite skill which I think is gonna take me a while to master. The food was delicious-even the fish! Yesterday, we already made our first cultural faux-pas. We were served dejeuner lunch and all left after we finished. Bouna, one of the program directors, told us later that we left before they served dessert. Haha, typically American, on the go.

We began to learn Wolof today, which I'm very glad about, because it seems much more appreciated in some situations to speak wolof instead of French.

Of course there are 12 girls and 2 boys on the program. Somehow going to all women's school dooms you to never be around men...Oh, and even better- my roommate goes to all women's school in Minnesota! In general, my fellow program participants seem pretty cool. Now that we've been here a day, I think it's clear that most everyone is going to be pretty good about branching out and pushing ourselves to take advantage of all we have to learn here.

I have so much more to say already after less than 48 hours. But I don't wanna write a novel.

a bientot